I tend to use 100˚C bed temp for ABS and 60˚C for PLA. Make sure the build plate is trammed well. I did the same as quillford above, on borosilicate and plain window glass. I've managed to build ABS, a couple custom ABS blends with other plastics, PLA, Form Futura flex PLA, PETG and HIPS on PEI. I haven't needed a brim with it at 70C either. I've had no issues with prints lifting with the bed at 70C. I find keeping a cotton pad with the isopropyl alcohol on it next to the printer is convenient for cleaning after removing the last print. 70% Isopropyl alcohol cleaning works for about two to three prints. I haven't needed to use a heated bed for PLA. I'm using 0.03" (~0.76mm) PEI taped to glass (borosilicate) with adhesive transfer tape. This seems to help promote adhesion, and as far, there are no visible ill effects to the surface.
One thing to note is that before each print, I do a quick wipe down with 91% IPA (and a cotton ball) to eliminate any possible finger residue that could have gotten on the PEI. At 90 I was receiving lifting, at 110 parts were nearly impossible to remove, but at 100 the parts adhered as expected. This led me to continually increase my bed temperatures until I settled on 100 degrees C being my final point. Originally, I was advised to start my heated bed out at 80 degrees C, but I was experiencing lifting with longer parts. I laminated a 0.030" thick sheet of PEI onto window glass sourced from Lowe's (to preserve flatness) with 3M 468MP Adhesive Transfer Tape.Īdditionally, my PEI had two different sides (one matte and one glossy), it is unknown the difference these sides cause to prints - I have performed approximately 50 prints (as of writing this section ) on the matte side with no ill effects noticed. The process I took to get my PEI to working state was as follows: I have now printed both ABS and PLA on PEI.įor ABS, I use a J-Head (original) temperature of 240 degrees C, and a heated bed temperature of 100 degrees C.įor PLA, I use a J-Head (original) temperature of 195 degrees C, and a heated bed temperature of 60 degrees C. Soap and Water (initial wash after cutting) Please add cleaning methods that have worked for you. Note that as of the writing of this article (), proper tests have not been carried out to determine the best method of cleaning PEI, the recommendations above are sourced from a brochure for Ultem. In other words, PEI can be cleaned through the use of Isopropyl Alcohol, which will theoretically help adhesion should you lose it. Avoid ketones (such as MEK) or strong bases (such as sodium hydroxide). Use isopropyl alcohol, methyl alcohol, soap, Heptane, Hexane, or Naphtha. You can also find PEI labeled as Ultem from suppliers such as McMaster-Carr: the 0.040" variety is suitable for printing.ġ2" x 12" 3M 468MP Adhesive - Cleaning & Maintenance
This will help increase your surface adhesion greatly. PLA does not require heat, but turning the heated bed up to 45C helps.īefore each print, wipe your PEI surface down with 70-91% Isopropyl alcohol, to ensure that you wipe away any grease or other residues that may have accumulated on the surface.
CS SOURCE TEXTURES HEATERS FREE
Parts should come free from the surface with almost no issue at all. Once you have laminated your sheet of PEI onto your glass, simply re-level your print bed and set your heated bed to 85 C for ABS and print away. The side of the PEI you choose (if your sides are different) does not matter, as it simply changes the appearance of the part underside. The type of glass you choose does not matter as long as you provide even heating of your glass (for example, if using a Mk2A/B heat bed, have your glass cut to 200 mm x 195 mm). Laminate your sheet of PEI using 3M 468MP Adhesive Transfer Tape to a glass/mirror print bed, keeping in mind that 3M 468MP is a very tacky tape that is prone to clumping.
PEI is easily cut to size by scoring with a hobby knife. Purchase a sheet of 0.03" - 0.04" (0.75mm-1mm) thick PEI, thinner can be used but it is more difficult to apply exactly flat to your surface.
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